Sunshine, spindrift and stuck ropes

I spent last weekend climbing with Martin. We had beautiful weather on Saturday, a real blue sky day. So being of above average intelligence we decided to climb the first route in the shade (bloody freezing) 2nd route in the sun (melting fast but lovely and warm) and the third route back in the shade (really cold now the sun is fast going down and we are both soaked from the sunshine route)

On Sunday we were both feeling pretty tired so decided to go after only one route and ahve a short day and an early end. I picked a beckoning gully right beside the road but unfortunately over the river. Neither of us was certain that the river ice was strong enough so I gallantly allowed Martin the honour of testing it. The ice held and I soon was leading the first, deceptively easy looking pitch.

7 hours later we had completed 2 abseils to regain the base of the icefall. Then the ropes got stuck. Really well and truly not budging at all. I ascended the borrowed 10mm rope using 2 tiblocs, causing some stripping of the sheath (sorry Gudmund!) and released the offending knots using my knife. 1 hour and 2 abseils on the good 8mm later I was back on terra firma, wiser for the experience and feeling pretty done in.

In all, a typical 'quick day out'!